Boost Nero and Alcatel Pixi 3: a quick look

First Impressions
The Pixi has a clean, plain, black design. The back cover is made from matte plastic – charcoal shade – with the Pixi logo debossed. It definitely keeps with the modern phone appearance, although the phone’s thickness and bezel around the screen differentiate it from more expensive models.     
The Nero takes us back to 2008 sharing great resemblance to the iPhone 3GS – complete with rounded edges, and silver/metallic strip around the phone. The back cover is made from shiny, fingerprint attracting plastic, with very small inverse dimples that make for an interesting feel.

Performance, Screen and UI
The Nero and Pixi both run on a  dual core 1Ghz processor with 500MB of RAM. Both phones feature a TFT touchscreen, however the Pixi has a much higher resolution (4″ at 800×480 vs 3.5″ at 480×320.) The TFT panels mean that there is a limited viewing angle – this is most noticeable if you watch a clip on either phone that features a dark scene – even at the perfect angle, around the corners, the dark scene will display as a purple/inverted mess. For normal browsing (black text on white/light colours), the TFT panels are more than adequate at a range of viewing angles.
Performance wise, the Nero is very snappy. There is no lag when swiping to a different homepage, and a slight pause when opening an app. The Pixi is not as snappy as the Nero, and there is a noticeable lag when flicking through the phone’s homepage or opening an app. (This is definitely due to the larger resolution of the Pixi.) App wise – both phones can handle to a good level simple games (i.e. the ones that are about 20-50MB downloads), and apps like Duolingo.
The Nero runs on 4.2 Jelly Bean and the Pixi runs on 4.4 KitKat. I haven’t experienced any problems with either OS. While I prefer Jelly Bean because it is a very simple and plain UI, I have to admit that KitKat is aesthetically a step up.

The image quality on both cameras leave much to be desired – had they been purchased for much more. However the fact that they were only $20 a pop, and they have a camera that can take okay-ish pics is amazing. Quality is ‘mobile’ webcam level, and both phones can take practical pictures – the stuff that your Samsung S7 or iPhone 6s will probably be taking (and not the great scenery shots you normally see!) – i.e. taking a quick snap of a document or a picture of something instore.

I picked up the Nero at $24.50 from Big W and a couple of months later picked up the Pixi for $19. The Pixi can be rooted easily, so I keep most non-essential apps on there. The Nero only has 4GB of memory, and is hard to root, so not a lot of space for apps. Most of the time, you get what you pay – and this is no different for the Nero and Pixi. Both phones fit my need perfectly – messaging/web browsing, so I think they are a steal if you use them for what they are!


Building a Computer

Part 1 – Choosing Components

The best part about building a computer is that you can choose your own parts. So if you know that you don’t need a powerful system – you’re just going to be word processing/surfing the net/watching TV shows – then, you can channel money away from a GPU that you probably won’t be using, to a really nice case. Similarly, for a budget gaming system you would probably prioritise a kickass GPU over a fancy case. In addition to this level of customisability, you also end up saving a few bucks as well! (And it takes an evening.)

You will need:

CPU (Processor)

Graphics Card
Internal Hard Drive
PSU (Power Supply Unit)

That’s it! These are the core components in any computer build. Buying these components from your local computer hardware store will allow you to fix up a system (additional items needed – a screwdriver! all wires are included with the components). You may not even need a graphics card – most AMD and Intel processors come with onboard graphics that are very capable – only buy graphics card if you are 3D rendering (AutoCAD)/playing modern games, and want to play the modern games at a high resolution and quality. If you do a quick YouTube of Intel’s or AMD’s onboard graphics (e.g. Intel HD Graphics from the Celeron/Pentium Haswell Intel Processors) you will find that they can often run modern games at lower settings/resolution. Extras for a PC build include: 5.25″ bay devices such as a DVD player/or card reader with additional USB outlets; PCI express devices such as wireless capabilities, or more USB3 headers; aftermarket CPU coolers (Intel and AMD both provide stock coolers with their consumer processors.)


CPU: I recently purchased a G1840 (a 4th generation/Haswell Intel processor) and I was pleasantly surprised with how fast operations were! If you are a hard core gamer, choose a Haswell (not Skylake!) i5 or i7 processor – as modern games are moving towards quad core CPUs. (The reason for not going Skylake – or atleast not now – is that most games have been optimised for Haswell; this will change as Skylake becomes more prevalent.)

Motherboard: MSI, Asus, AsRock, Gigabyte.. all good brands, all have horror stories and die hard supporters – the choice is yours! Luckily with warranties, even if you do get a bad egg, you can get it replaced. Remember that your CPU must have the same socket as your motherboard – e.g. LGA 1150 (Haswell 4th gen Intel) or FM3+ (FX series AMD).

GPU: You need this if you are playing new games at 1080p/60fps/ultra settings. If you are not, than Intel or AMD’s integrated graphics will be fine! For example, the Intel Celeron G1840 Haswell (which is a very budget orientated processor) has Intel HD Graphics included. It handles League of Legends fine (60fps at lower resolutions/medium settings). It also handles Bioshock, and other older games really well. It can play 1080p videos with no stutters – awesome stuff!

RAM: 8GB of DDR3. That’s all you need. Not much difference between DDR4/DDR3/1333MHz/2400MHz/8GB/16GB. 8GB is the sweet spot for RAM – get 16GB if you need 25 years of future proofing!

Case: Generally I look for number of front USB ports/looks/options for fans – up to you!

PSU: If you don’t have a graphics card, you can probably escape with most PSUs or even case+PSU combos – if you don’t draw much power, your PSU won’t be stressed, and it won’t die. If you need reliability/you will be drawing a lot of power (as is the case if you have a gaming graphics card), than look for a good PSU, i.e. ones with ALL quality/Japanese capacitors.

Internal Hard Drive: SSDs vs HDDs, the choice is yours! I find that both types can be very snappy – lag is most often due to a messy computer/old CPU/too little RAM.

Part 2 – Building your Computer

This is the video guide that I used.

Only note to make is to install CPU+stock CPU cooler before putting it into the case, so that you can check whether your CPU cooler is properly affixed by looking at the back of the motherboard (as watched here:

And that’s it – good luck!